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Normandy 2014 – Day#01 Friday 30th May

Pubs and brewpubs – that’s a different start for us… not!

Roebuck pubWe started off and first went to Banbury where we had lunch in a Hook Norton pub – The Roebuck. Hook Norton being a brewery that neither Glyn nor I had had beers from for a long time.

We then continued to Aylesbury, and the Hop Pole, which we had visited the previous year. At that point the pub that we arrived at had not started brewing. Frustratingly they were just a few weeks off starting to do so. We were pleased to find they were still brewing, so Hope Pole Aylesbury (1)Glyn and I enjoyed a pint of one of their beers. Unfortunately a combination of : time; the fact that we were supposed to be on a historical research trip rather than just a tour of brewpubs (‘though that’s research in its own way!); and that I was driving, meant that we had to leave after one drink.

We then continued on to St Albans, booked in to the hotel, and then walked the half mile to the Farmers Boy pub  – the brewpub of the Verulam brewery. Apologies to those wanting Military History stuff… we’re still on the “beer thing”… but don’t worry, history soon intervenes!. Stuart Hadaway joined us there shorty afterwards. Regular readers of this blog will be aware that, when he was a Curator at the RAF Museum in Hendon, he was very helpful in my research into Flt Lt John Harder. He now works for the RAF Air Historical branch, but our shared interest has continued & developed into a friendship.

Rock ‘n’ roll rears it’s head

A band began to setup their equipment, including the most enormous Drum kit. We have a friend who plays in a number of excellent bands – Darkside (Pink Floyd tribute) & Off The Rails to name but two, he would have drooled over that kit. Unfortunately, in a small pub they were somewhat LOUD. Normally, Glyn and I would have just sat back & enjoyed their playing (as they played “our” sort of music). However, it made conversation very difficult. So, reluctantly, we chose to move on to the White Hart Tap pub where we had met Stuart the year before.

War memorials, pyramids and fleshpots – an interesting mish-mash!

In this pub in the rear beer garden is one of the few remaining part of the original Roman city walls of St Albans. Unfortunately there was a private event on and so we were unable to see them (cue return visit!). Stuart also pointed out that many of the streets in St Albans had their own war memorials. They were for people who had lived in that street and been killed in the First World War.

Whilst in the pub we also discussed Stuart’s forthcoming book (Pyramids and Fleshpots). It is about about the First World War fighting that took part in Palestine and he had just finished writing it. Here’s a link to his Facebook page which also will include details of the second and third books in the series.

On our way back to the hotel, as we had not eaten, we decided to have that staple of drinking nights for people in the UK: a kebab. Which I have to say was very good.

Today’s photo albums

August update

So August has arrived & still no postings yet of the June trip… so what have I been doing?

Well, in the background, I’ve been getting the words sorted ready to post and the same with the photographs… but what’s also taken time out is that I returned to Normandy in July & met (among others) the son of the bakers that used to own where Barrie & Stuart now live during the war and who recalled seeing some of the men that were held in the shed.

What’s more, I’m now preparing for my third trip this year as I travel over again to take part in the celebrations of the 70th Anniversary of the Liberation of the village of St Vigor. As part of this, in the afternoon, I’m delivering my talk that tells the tale of the men & my research project to find out about them.

Once I’m back from there, there will be a mass update of stuff!

Normandy 2014

Normandy 70

Final preparations are almost complete for the first of three trips to Normandy in this 70th Anniversary year

As usual, there will be a mix of research,, history, meeting Veterans and I suspect that beer, wine, cider & Calvados will also be involved!

Day #1 – Friday 30th May

This should be a fairly easy day as we’re still using Sterling and English! We’re off down to St Albans to neet up with Stuart Hadaway. Stuart used to be a curator at the RAF Museum at Hendon, but is now with the RAF’s Air Historical Branch. As regular readers of this blog will know, Stuart also writes books, two of which I have (& have promoted here) and he’s got a new one out soon focusing on WW1 out in the Middle East. I suspect that, as we’re staying near to a brewpub (The Farmer’s Boy) the odd pint or three may be consumed… purely in the interests of research, of course!

Day #2 – Saturday 31st May

Sees us heading over to France.. with an overnight stop in Boulogne. Hopefully, our timings will allow us time for some sight-seeing (and perhaps a visit to the  Trois Brasseurs in Calais… just to confound & confuse my wargaming  & Manchester Military History Society friends, we might even visit Vauban’s Citadel in Calais and even Napoleon’s Column above Boulogne

Day #3 – Sunday 1st June

This day will see us heading over to the St Lo area ready for our continuing search for Francis Gillespie’s crash site & we might also try to meet the people who own the land where Ray Elledge crashed

Day #3 – Monday 2nd June

This is the  day that we’ll hopefully finding crash sites and then perhaps meeting some veterans or just a general “mooch” around. In the evening, hopefully we’ll be meeting up with Bill & Elizabeth Sullivan in Ste Mere Eglise ready for our tour tomorrow

Day #4 – Tuesday 3rd June

Once again, we’ve been asked to accompany Bill & Elizabeth on a tour of Normandy visiting some of the places that Bill & Morris Sheppard were held as PoWs or evaded from the  Germans. This is a pretty massive honour & thoroughly enjoyable… ‘though hopefully, we’ll be able to find somewhere more substantial to eat than McDonalds this year!

Day #5 – Wednesday 4th June

For part of the day, we’re hoping to find some of the  places that the PBI that were held in the shed were captured. I suspect that we won’t be able to find the exact location, I’m hoping that we might have sufficient information to be at least be able to get close to the  likely area.

Day #6 – Thursday 5th June

As has become a regular event, we’ll be meeting up with Albert Figg an ex-gunner with 112 Field Artillery Regiment on top of Hill 112 and then off for a meal; we’ll also be taking some additional photos of the  Operation EPSOM area ready for my talk to the Manchester Military History Society on the Operation. We’re staying overnight at Tony & Jill Stansfield’s (again as usual) & Tony has assured us that his home-brewed cider is ready, so that could be fun!

Day #7 – Friday 6th June

So, the 70th Anniversary of D Day – the beginning of the end for the Nazi regime. We’re avoiding the main events as they’re going to be total traffic jams, ticket only & time for veterans… so after a visit to Hill 226 (to take photos in the correct place this year!), we’ll once again be joining in with the ceremony at St Charles de Percy Commonwealth Cemetery followed by an evening celebration in Montchamps

Day #8 – Saturday 7th June

At the moment, we’ve nothing specifically planned for this… perhaps nursing sore heads from the night before!

Day #9 – Sunday 8th June

We’ll be visiting the Tilly Book fair at Tilly sur Seulles run by Stephane Jaquet just outside of the  museum in the town & well worth a visit in its own right; having left the museum, we’ll be heading off to Rouen and our (again) regular visit to Patrick at the Brasserie du Chant du Loup

Day #10 – Monday 9th June

Today, we’ll be heading off to Peronne where there’s a World War 1 museum which should be interesting… of course, the fact that there’s a brewery there, too, has nothing at all to do with our visit!

Day # 11 – Tuesday 10th June

This is our last full day in France and additional sampling of French beers will undoubtedly be undertaken

Day #12 – Wednesday 11th June

Sees us heading back to the UK hopefully with a lot of new memories and research material gained as  well as friendships firmed up and new friends made

Normandy 2013 – Day#12 Wednesday 12th June

And so to home… via a brewpub, naturally!

An earlyish breakfast saw us off to fill up with some presents & fuel at the local supermarket before heading back to the Chunnel.

Whilst, in some ways, we’d not added as much to the tale of “The Men in the Shed” on this trip, we had, perhaps, found additional avenues to follow-up & the times spent in Peter & Eain’s company & also the day with Bill Sullivan were wonderful & well worth thr trip, alone.

White Horse (1)A review of the map & the Good Beer Guide saw us heading to the White Horse, brewery tap of the Brentwood Brewery Unfortunately, whilst there were 10 beers available, there was only one from the brewery, itself, which was slightly disappointing – especially as it was superb & our second pints (of different beers) were far less so… mind you, the food was nice!

Amd so ended another trip to Normandy… wonderful weather (largely), wonderful company & excellent food & drink… as Arnie said (sort of): We’ll be back!!

 

Today’s Photos

Normandy 2013 – Day#11 Tuesday 11th June

A medal, a Beach, a Band of Brothers and Azeville Battery’s painted bunkers

An eclectic day finished off our last full day in France.

UTAH BeachAs we were right on UTAH breach, I decided to go and take some photos as well as taking a jar full of sand I know it is wrong and if everyone did it that there would be no sand left but as this was my first time at UTAH beach, I thought that I might get away with it!Peter Findlay with medal

Then I took
a few photos of the medal that Peter had been awarded on Saturday before saying goodbye to Peter and Eain as we set off for the Azeville Battery.

Band of Brothers

Many of you will be familiar with the TV series Band of Brothers which follows the exploits of Easy Company of the 506th Regiment of the 101st Airborne Division. Drawn from interviews with survivors of Easy Company, as well as their journals and letters, Band of Brothers chronicles the experiences of these men from paratrooper training in Georgia through the end of the war. As an elite rifle company parachuting into Normandy early on D-Day morning, participants in the Battle of the Bulge, and witness to the horrors of war, the men of Easy knew extraordinary bravery and extraordinary fear – and became the stuff of legend. Based on Stephen E. Ambrose’s acclaimed book of the same name.

Dick Winters memorialOn our way through to Azeville, we passed the memorial to Major Richard “Dick” Winters, their CO and then past Brecourt Manor where, on the morning of 6th June 1944 the, then, 1st Lt Dick Winters led a small group of men to take out a 4 gun German battery that was firing onto UTAH Beach. This Assault is oftenBrecourt Manor cited as a classic example of small-unit tactics and leadership in overcoming a larger enemy force

Azeville Battery

Eain had mentioned this a couple of times and so, as neither of us had ever visited it before, it was as good a place as any to visit.

Azeville BatteryBuilt by the Todt organisation between 1941 and 1944 close to Ste Mère Eglise the Azeville Battery was seen as a vital part of the Atlantic Wall. Equipped with a complete defense system and impressive underground complex it was one of the Allies’ prime objectives on 6th June 1944. It saw some of the first action of the Landings and bombarded UTAH Beach for the first three days.  It was finally taken after fierce fighting on 9th June.Azeville Battery

Casemate Number 1 was seriously damaged and the gun crew killed when a second 14-inch shell from the USS Nevada went through the gun shield

, through the back wall into the plotting room, bounced off the floor & exited through the rear machine gun port. The shell was found outside in 1994. The first shell had exploded outside & the damage can still be clearly seen today.

Azeville BatteryWhat is fascinating about this battery & as far as I’m aware, unique to all of the Atlantic Wall defences is that the gun casements were painted in an attempt to disguise them as damaged French farm buildings; as the site was opened up as a museum, these were repainted on the walls to take them back to the condition they were in 1944.

And homewards… sort of… with a planned diversion to a final brewery!

So, for our final evening in France, we were staying, as last year, at St Omer… but this time it would be better as Glyn had found the brewery, so it would be a quick drop-off of bags and a short walk to the beer… at least, that was the plan…

… but do you ever have one of those days that starts brilliantly, but then goes downhill?

Yup, we arrived at the hotel… took our bags inside & tried to book in… however, “today” was the 11th June & some useless pillock (ahh… that would be me!) had booked us in the hotel for Tuesday the 4th… whoops!! And, of course, to make matters worse, the hotel was fully booked!

Fortunately, the young lady on the reception desk was really helpful & once we’d been able to explain that we didn’t really want a hotel that would cost more than three times what we had planned to pay, found us a hotel in Arques… about 10 minutes drive away… or so we thought… brief tours around Arques eventually saw us arrive at the hotel some 1/2 hour later… mind you, the young lady on reception was worth the wait!!

ArquesAnyway, food then called & we went into the town centre & found an absolutely fantastic little restaurant where some of our drinks were paid for by one of a party of diners when we swapped where we were sitting to allow their friends to move a table & join them… what a wonderful gesture… of course, others would look at that as we were paid to move away!!

 

Today’s photos

Normandy 2013 – Day#10 Monday 10th June

A PoW’s  journey

You’ll recall that last year we met Bill Sullivan & his wife, Elizabeth, who, whilst not one of the “MenInTheShed”, gave me (via Morris Sheppard’s son, Jim) lots of information of the time when he was “on the run” with Morris, allowing us to re-find the places they’d been, I was proud to be able to offer to re-acquaint him with some of the places they’d visited. Unfortunately, last year, Bill wasn’t well enough for the tour, but with careful planning, this year, we had a whole day ahead of us.

We initally headed to just west of Sainte Mere Eglise to the famous crossing of the River Merderet by the farm of La Fiere where the 82nd Airborne Division held off & then pushed back the Germans to hold this key objective. There is now a number of memorials on what is now a quiet river bank. This website tells the tale.

Iron Mike R Merderet & La Fiere (05)
   R Merderet & La Fiere (20)

 

Did you hear the one about the Scottish “Tankie”, an American “Para” and a Jeep bonnet?

Veterans & Mikes bonnet (01) Yes, it sounds like the start to a long rambling joke, but it’s not… Peter & Eain Findlay had followed us to La Fiere & then into the grounds of Le Manoir which overlooks the famous bridge & is now a B&B where Bill, Elizabeth & her sister’s family was staying. We also met Mike (whom we’d met on Saturday) as he is collecting veterans’ signatures on a restored jeep bonnet & had asked me to check with Elizabeth that Bill would be willing to do this, which he was.

Peter, Elizabeth Sullivan & Bill SullivanSo, there was a brief review of who was where during the Normandy fighting, a signing of the bonnet & lots of photos & then Peter presented Bill with a copy of Ian Daglish’s book on Operation BLUECOAT in the “Over the Battlefield” series which details the first time that Peter’s unit – 3rd battalion, Scots Guards – saw action when they took & held Hill 226, ‘though this did see them incurring many casualties.Veterans & Mikes bonnet (10)

Then, as we’d decided to take full advantage of the fact that my Discovery has 7 seats & all tour together, we needed to empty the boot & back seat of the car… it still amazes me how much crap two blokes can carry around with them!

The tour itinerary

Fortunately, as we’d been able to plan ahead, I’d been able to work out a schedule that would see us able to visit all of the sites that we needed to and be back at a reasonable time… we were also very fortunate in that the weather was really nice which helped make driving pleasant. In addition, we’d been able to alert some of the relevant people to the fact that we were coming, so it was less of a surprise than when Glyn & I turned up a couple of years ago

Because of our start point & the
fact that when Bill Sullivan, Morris Sheppard, Al Krietsch & Marty Knafl were either on the run, or caught & being transported by the Germans, they didn’t follow a nice circular route, we had to visit each of the places in a different order to what they were in 1944.

When we arrived at Creances, Bill was presented with a map drawn up from his diary, a copy of which he had left during his own visit back in the 1990’s

Flour Mill

Bill S Flour Mill (12)Our first stop was at the old flour mill at La Cour d’Aisy between Varenguebec and Doville & a warm welcome from M. & Mme Lenot who now own the property.Bill S Flour Mill (03)

We were able to recreate the photos that Bill had taken back in the 1990’s, ‘though the stream had
been culverted since then. We then shared some of M & Mme Lenot’s home made Normndy Champagne and tell Bill’s story to the local newspaperman that had been invited. Unfortunately, the tight timing of our itinerary meant that we couldn’t stay too long, ‘though not before lots more photographs were taken!

Bill S Flour Mill (17)What was great to experience was the fact that our party’s French wasn’t particularly good & M & Mme Lenot & the reporter didn’t speak much English… but we still managed to get the story over & the hospitality that we received transcended language.

On next to Creances

Our next stop was the town of Creances, where the 4 guys (Sullivan, Sheppard, Krietsch & Knafl) had been hidden in a couple of barns & you may recall, Bill had revisited & left a statuette of a paratrooper. However, we took a small detour to pick up another village, ‘though Bill couldn’t recall any of the buildings.

Once in Creances, we had a bite to eat & then on to the Mairie where the deputy mayor – M. Michel Athanase – made us feel welcome as the Mayor, M Lemoigne, was out of the country.

Bill S Creances (43)

As the weather was still being kind, we (and what seemed like half of the town!) piled back into the cars & headed off to the stone barn that was in the middle of the woodsBill S Creances (55)

where Bill & the gang hid out for 8 days. We were joined here by M. & Mme Leconte & M. Gautier and their families whom we’d met on our previous visit, by local reporters and a film crew! I had been concerned about how easily Bill would have been able to walk to the barn in the woods as when Glyn & I visited the grass was very high. However, prior to our visit, a wide path had been mown right up to the barn, making access very easy. Newspaper article creancesThe report of the visit even made it into the local paper & local newsletter. Having had Bill explain what had happened back in 1944, we all joined in some more Normandy Champagne before heading back to the town hall (or Mairie).

Bill S Creances (08)Once there, the Deputy Mayor explained about the exhibition that had been set out in the entrance foyer of the Mairie focusing on Creances during the Second World War prepared by M. Benoit Beauquesne, and then he presented to Bill a map Bill S Creances (20)that had been drawn up by M. Regis Giard. Fortunately, my poor French-English translating wasn’t required as we were ably assisted by M. Regis Giard and also by Mme Valerie Cardin (nee Gautier) who both Bill Sullivan and Morris Sheppard wrote to after the war.

Since writing the original summary of this part of the visit, I have received a lovely email from M. Francois Leconte who told me that also present was his mother, Mme Marie Leconte Esnault (91 years young!) whose father (and Francois’s grandfather), Monsieur Auguste Esnault was one of the people who helped hide Bill Sullivan & the others in the “Owl Shack” back in 1944. She had heard lots about Bill from her father and so was delighted to meet him on the day.

In many ways, this sums up perfectly what I’ve tried to do in telling this story – add small jigsaw pieces of people’s past lives into the present.

So, having spent a wonderful couple of hours in Creances, renewing friendships, it was once again, time to move on, this time to La Ronde Haye

La Ronde Haye schoolhouse

La Ronde Haye was the last time that Bill Sullivan & Morris Sheppard would see each other during the war. They were taken to the village  with around 40 others & held in the schoolhouse. However, the lax way in which the Germans guarded them allowed Sullivan & Krietsch to escape & also Sheppard & someone else… unfortunately, they were all recaptured, but at different times.

When we arrived, Glyn took our party to the building that we had guessed might be the schoolhouse back in 1944, but when he saw it, close to the church, Bill was certain that that wasn’t it as the building that they had been held in was nearer the edge of the village as they’d climbed out through a back window & into some fields.

Fortunately, on this occasion, I noticed that (unlike our previous visit) the Mairie was open, so, me being me, popped in and introduced myself & explained what we were doing. One of the people in the room was M. Denis Lenesley – the local mayor – and he immediately offered to show us the original schoolhouse.Bill S La Ronde Haye (2)

Just on this point, whenever we’ve been in France looking for information (whether with a veteran or not), the local Mayors and their staff have been wonderfully helpful in many cases stopping what they were doing to help us with our enquiries; without their assistance, we wouldn’t have found as much as we did and it is very much appreciated.

Bill S La Ronde Haye (5)When we made our way to the old schoolhouse (now a private residence) we were joined by an old gentleman who recalled the schoolhouse being used as a prison during the war when he was a youngster.

Following our visit, M. Lenesley wrote about it in the village newsletter.

The Monastery

Our final visit of the day was to “The Monastery” at La Chapelle sur Vire. This was used as a clearing station for American prisoners of war. Unfortunately Bill didn’t recognise the place, however it was 69 years ago!

Bill S Monastery (1)Having had a walk around the grounds, we decided that it was time to head off for some food and this was where our plans went awry! Of course everything had gone so well so far something had to go wrong… everywhere was shut! So, much to my embarrassment and Bill’s annoyance, we ended up at McDonald’s!!

Having had a quick burger we then headed home; a tiring but enjoyable day

Today’s Photos

Normandy 2013 – Day#9 Sunday 9th June

Tilly Book Fair and balloons

Tilly Book Fair

The “Salon du Livre de la Battaille de Normandie” or “Tilly Book Fair of the Battle of Normandy” is now in it’s fifth year. The “brainchild” of the Tilly 1944 Association and in particular the curator of the museum at Tilly sur Seulles  – Stéphane Jacquet – is certainly worth a visit if you’re looking for either some rare examples of books focusing on the events from 6th June 1944 to the end of August (and warfare, generally, to be honest) and so it was that we found ourselves there on it’s usual day – the Sunday immediately following the D-Day commemoration. For those thinking of attending next year, it will be on Sunday, 8th June 1944 (click here for a flyer). In recent years, this has been held in remembrance of Ian Daglish who was a regular attender of the fair and a well known & liked military historian.

In addition to meeting up with Stéphane, again, he introduced us to M. George Bernage (who is the main driving force behind the Editions Heimdal books & magazines). You’ll recall that Colin met him in Carentan when he signed the copies of the books that Colin bought for himself and Peter & Eain… he remembered me & immediately, to my surprise, apologised. Apparently, because he had been in the shop signing their copies of the books, he wasn’t able to let me know that an English language version was available… however he had copies with him at the fair & offered them to me at a vastly reduced cost – which I purchased – what a really wonderful gentleman.

So, having had a good look round, it was farewell to Stéphane & we headed back off to UTAH

Balloons at Balleroy

Balleroy (1)We took a slightly circuitous route back (no surprises there, then for those of you that have been following our adventures over the past couple of years), but this one was (almost) planned… well, sort of… in a kind of “well that road seems to sort of head the way that we think we want to go… probably!”

Anyway, by hook, crook, good judgement or sheer luck, we ended up driving down a long avenue towards a chateau… which turned out to be the Chateau de Balleroy which (I think) has a history of ballooning from the earliest days with the Montgolfier s through to the present owner. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time for a visit… maybe next year

Today’s photos

 

Normandy 2013 – Day#8 Saturday 8th June

Presentations and P47s in Normandy

With Peter Findlay

So, as is usual on these trips, we got up in the morning & immediately amended the plans that we had for the day! The reason for this was that Peter Findlay, one of our hosts, was being honoured with the presentation of a medal from the French Senate in recognition of the work that he has done in Anglo-French relationships during his many returns to Normandy.

Peter Findlay Ceremony (01)This was being held in the village of Houesville so we set off in the very cold, strong wind (yes, unfortunately, as we have noticed in the past, it’s not always bright, warm & sunny in France!).

On ar
rival, we were met by Tansy and Mike who are the owners of the property where we were staying with Peter and Eain; following a quick chat in the warm, we headed off to the village square where we were met by the local mayor and the rest of the villagers.

Just as we were getting ready for the presentation, lots of bicycle riders arrived – many dressed as Resistance fighters as they were on a local tour & had agreed to join in the celebration.Cyclists

In spite of the cold and biting wind, when the time came for the ceremony to begin, Peter insisted on being “on Parade” in just his suit… I had shirt, two fleeces and a windproof coat & I still felt cold!! They obviously built them differently back then!

On completion of the ceremony, warm coats were re-donned, hand were shaken, wine was drunk and the cyclists waved off on to their next stage.

We then returned to Tansy and Mike’s for a warming cuppa… at which point, Peter pulled rank & ensured that he had an extra-large “tot” in his drink… but deservedly so.

  Peter Findlay Peter Findlay Ceremony (22)
Peter Findlay Ceremony (14)

P47 hunting

So, now back to the initial plan… and off to where, a couple of years ago, we discovered what we believe to be Major Ray Elledge’s crash site. We had decided to revisit the site to have a more detailed look around to see if we could discover any further evidence that would support the 90% certainty that we were in the right place… a piece of wreckage with a serial number would have been brilliant…

Unfortunately, when we arrived, in the place of the small pond that we’d found on our first visit, was a completely overgrown jungle! In fact, having struggled through to where we thought the edge of the pond was, I was so disappointed with how overgrown it had become that I threw a sulk & didn’t even take a photograph…

On a slightly more positive note, as we were walking back towards the car, we met a group of woodcutters (yes, I know that sounds like a scene from a fairy story, but we really did!) & I started to explain (with bad French & lots of arm-waving) what we were doing & why we were there… they seemed to understand! But, the big positive that came from this encounter was the fact that they
were able to explain who actually owned the land – they just worked it, so another contact to follow up!

More P47 Hunting

By now, the weather had really improved and we set off towards the hamlet of “Le Bocage” which had been identified in the MACR report of Francis Gillespie as being the place where his P47 had crashed, with him parachuting nearby.

Bocage (1)Given that this whole part of Normandy is known as “Bocage”, I’d not been particularly hopeful that we’d be able to identify it, however, a further search on Google Maps (or perhaps a slightly different wording had allowed me to spot where it was in time for this year’s trip.Bocage (3)

So having eaten a well-balanced lunch of pastries, we head off to find “Le Bocage”

It was smaller than we thought! And, being typically French, very poorly signposted! However, Bocage (2)what it did allow us to do was see some lovely French hamlets & also experience some further Bocage “terrain” to get some idea of what the area might have been like 69 years ago… ‘though, of course, the banks to the roads wouldn’t have been as well kept & “manicured” as some of the ones that we saw.

Unfortunately, when we did find anyone to ask, they had no knowledge of Gillespie’s crash…. This may have been explained by the fact that they hadn’t been there at the time, however, as I found out later (when back in the UK), one of my French contacts has identified Gillespie’s crash site near to the village of LA FEUILLIE approximately 3.5km away… irritatingly, Glyn & I drove through this village on our way to Le Bocage!

It was now time to leave & head back to Peter and Eain for some beer, food and a good “blether”…

Carentan

Carentan (09)However, rather than heading directly back, we decided to detour via Carentan… a lovely town, taken over by re-enactors & people watching them. Mind you, there was a great band playing & some fantastic girl singers…Carentan (01)

What’s more, I managed to pick up a couple of books on the Battle of Normandy in the Heimdal series & had them signed by M. George Bernage… the only downside was that they were in French… but more of that, tomorrow…

Today’s Photos

Normandy 2013 – Day#7 Friday 7th June

Operation BLUECOAT, Sainte-Mère-Église and UTAH Beach

Following Operation BLUECOAT

Daglish Bluecoat TourIn the past, whenever we’ve visited Normandy and followed the tour of Opertion BLUECOAT laid out in the back of Ian Daglish’s book on the subject, we’ve always started at Caumont & made it as far as Le Beny Bocage, or perhaps th e cemetery at St Charles de Percy; this year would be different, however, as we started out from Tony & Jill’s place at Estry and headed towards our first stop at Presles Bluecoat looking towards Perrier Ridgewhere we took a couple of photos looking towards the Perrier Ridge.

We then followed the tour in Ian’s book up the hill towards Chêndollé, pausing by the 1Operation Bluecoat - 11th Armoured Div Memorial1th Armoured Division Memorial just outside of the village. Turning right, we headed out through some “real bocage” Bluecoat bocageuntil we came to the point where Ian points out that Lt Steel Brownlie spearheaded the attack down a narrow track heading directly south to the Vire to Vassyroad. At this point, Ian suggests: “If you are feeling adventurous, pull on waterproofs and wellington boots and retrace Steel Brownlie’s steps south along the path to the RUGBY objective: the Vire-Vassy road“. Landrovers are NOT Sherman tanksWell, with it being hot & the airconditioning in the car working well, we decided to dispense with the waterproofs and wellingtons & drive down to see how far we could get… … then I remembered a photograph in Ian’s book with the caption… “The second tank became stuck fast…” and realising that I was in a Landrover and NOT a Sherman tank, I decided that discretion was the better part of valour, stopped the car & walked Bluecoat objective RUGBY at the treelinemost of the rest of the way until I could see the road (to be honest, if I’d been in my old Landrover Defender, I’d have probably pushed on further!). Anyway, honour thus satisfied, I made my way back to where I’d left the car & the dawning of a thought that a 3 point turn was going to be less than easy! Fortunately, we found a slightly wider section and following some shunting (and more like a 50 point turn) were soon facing the other way. That then took us back north heading through Pavée to la Fauvellière and past the twin monuments Bluecoat NorMons monumentto the “Nor-Mons” and Corporal Sidney Bates VC. The “Nor-Mons” were a conbined unit made up of the remnants of 1st Battalion Royal Norfolk Regiment and 3rd Battalion Monmouth Regiment. It was against these that the 10th SS Panzer Division’s (Frundsberg)  Panzer Grenadiers launched an attack intenting to drive them from their positions. Bates spotted what was happening & launched a one man attack with a Bren gun which turned the tide… as the citation for his Victoria Cross states…

‘War Office, 2nd November, 1944.
The KING has been graciously pleased to approve the posthumous awards of the VICTORIA CROSS to:— No. 5779898Sidney_Bates_VC_Grave Corporal Sidney Bates, The-Royal Norfolk Regiment (London, S.E.5). In North-West West Europe on 6th August, 1944, the position held by a battalion of the Royal Norfolk Regiment near Sourdeval was attacked in strength by 10th S.S. Panzer Division. The attack started with a heavy and accurate artillery and mortar programme on the position which the enemy had, by this time, pin-pointed. Half an hour later the main attack developed and heavy machine-gun and mortar fire was concentrated oh the point of junction of the two forward companies. Corporal Bates was commanding the right forward section of the left forward company which suffered some, casualties, so he decided to move the remnants of his section to an alternative position whence he appreciated he could better counter the enemy thrust. However, the enemy wedge grew still deeper, until there were about; 50 to 60 Germans, supported by machine guns and mortars, in the area occupied by the section. Seeing that the situation was becoming, desperate, Corporal Bates then seized a light machine-gun and charged the enemy, moving forward through a hail of bullets and spnnters and firing the gun from his hip. He was almost immediately wounded by machine-gun fire and fell to the ground, but recovered himself quickly, got up and continued advancing towards the enemy, spraying bullets from his gun as he went. His action by now was having an effect on the enemy riflemen and machine gunners but mortar bombs continued to fall all around him. He was then hit for the second time and much more seriously and painfully wounded. However, undaunted, he staggered once more to his feet and continued towards the enemy who were now seemingly nonplussed by their inability to check him. His constant firing continued until the enemy started to withdraw before him. At this moment, he was hit for the third time by mortar bomb splinters, a wound that was to prove mortal. He again fell to the ground but continued to fire his weapon until his strength failed him. This was not, however, until the enemy Had withdrawn and the situation in this locality had been restored. Corporal Bates died shortly afterwards of the wounds he had received, but, by his supreme gallantry and self sacrifice he had personally restored what had been a critical situation.

Bluecoat copycat photoSo, having taken our photos (including a duplicate of one in Ian’s book, and a quick look back at “RUGBY” in the middle distance, Bluecoat  looking south to RUGBYwe made our way via Burcy towards the motorway and Sainte-Mère-Église.

 At Sainte-Mère-Église

Ste Mere Eglise (05)As usual for this time of year, the town was incredibly busy not only with re-enactors of various “believability”… but also a great number of Veterans – the latter happy to stop & talk to anyone.  It was also busy as there was an “Arms Fair” on… though whilst very tempting, I decided
not to buy myself any weaponry… ‘though it would have been fun… Anyway, having had a good look round, we had to head off to meet up with Peter & Eain Findlay again as they had kindly invited us to stay for a few days with them at the house they rented on UTAH Beach. As the traffic was a little heavy, we decided to pick a road that didn’t look too busy & head out north… …so, having arrived at the dead end, we turned round, went back into town & then took the next road out…

Onto “what should have been” UTAH Beach

UTAH (02)On our way, we went through the village of Beuzeville-au-Plain where there is a memorial to First Lieutenant Thomas Meehan III  and his fellow paratroopers who perished when their transport plane was shot down by flak on the morning of 6th June 1944 We then moved on & soon came to one of the straight roads that leads across what appears to be marshland or reclaimed land out towards the coast. Many of these are named after American servicemen who lost their lives in the Normandy landings in June 1944; the one that we initially travelled along being Carter Road (in honour of UTAH Carter Road markerPvt T H Carter, 531st Engineer Shore Regiment KIA on 6th June). We then came to the French Memorial where the famous LeClerc 2nd UTAH LeClerc memorialArmoured Division came ashore to help reclaim France from the German invaders. Interestingly, this is what should have been UTAH beach, but the wind & tides on the morning of D Day meant that the landing actually took place two miles down the coast; a fact featured in a scene in the film “The Longest Day” Along this stretch of beach there are some old German defensive emplacements UTAH German emplacementUTAH German "Tobruk" machine gun emplacementthat you can get into and begin to appreciate how secure the German army must have felt before the invasion started

UTAH Beach

As I’ve mentioned, a couple of miles down the road we find what became UTAH beach with the main memorial and museum. Here there UTAH US Coastguard Memorialis also a memorial to the men of the US Coastguard who manned many of the ships transporting the men and vehicles onto the invasion beaches – earlier this year, one of John Harder’s brothers – Phil – passed away who served with the US Coastguard & who visited John Harder just prior to the invasion, so I’m glad that I was able to take a photo of the memorial & send it off to them. Having had a brief look around, but not early enough to look round the museum, we were met by Eain and Peter Findlay with whom we were staying for the next few days so we then followed them back to the house they were renting… literaly on the beachfront and only yards from the museum! Apparently, one of the American frogmen – Angelo Chatas –  who came ashore before the landings to mark the edges of the beaches & demolish the beach obstacles appeared just at the end of their road which is now named after him. We then had a quiet evening chatting (or as Eain would have it “Blethering”) away about this and that over a quiet beer; a wonderful end to the day

Today’s Photos

Normandy 2013 – Day#6 Thursday 6th June

Bocage, Hill 226 and St Charles de Percy

Bocage bagging

When reading & talking about the post D-Day fighting one word crops up time and again: “Bocage”. So what was “Bocage” or “The Hedgerow Country” as Americans called it?

A dictionary definition is: “the wooded countryside characteristic of northern France, with small irregular-shaped fields and many hedges and copses”… and whilst that projects a gentle image, to work your way through it is far more difficult… even more so if you’re being shot at! The roads between the bocage hedges are narrow, usually sunken due to use; the hedges are thick & around 6 feet high themselves sometimes on top of earthen banks 6-12 feet above the roadside with the fields also raised above the road.

Bocage (4) Bocage (2) Bocage (6)

These photographs give some ideas & bearing in mind that huge tracts of the bocage were removed after WW2 to allow for increased farming in larger fields

Onto Hill 226

Hill 226 was one of the main objectives of the 3rd battalion, Scots Guards (one of the three Battalions of 6th Guards Tank Brigade) as part of their role on the left flank of Operation BLUECOAT. To get to it, the Churchill tanks of the battalion had to work through several miles of bocage, terrain so difficult that they left their accompanying infantry to 15th Scottish Division behind.

Hill226 error (5)Arriving on their objective, at 18:30hours, they were subjected to mortar and artillery fire from the German lines and, from  their left rear flank came three German JagdPanther tank destroyers who, within less than 5 minutes, had destroyed 11 of the Guards’ tanks causing many casualties, including 24 killed.

This is a battle of great interest to me… not only because I’ve wargamed it & read a lot about it and visited the site, as well as given talks about it, but particularly because I’m proud to know one of the veterans that fought there – Colour Sergeant Peter Muir Findlay (regular readers of this blog will recall the photographs from last year where we met up at the evening event in Montchamps). We’ll meet Peter again on this trip…

In the past, I’d visited the hill, but wasn’t always sure where things were… but this year would be different… I’d done lots more research, read a lot more books, checked aerial Aerial Map Hill 226photographs and even had my compass ready… so, in the blazing sunshine, Glyn and I set off up the hill… we took lots of photographs working out where everything was – each element of the Battalion… who was where and where they were looking, etc… lots of great photographs…

… and then we went back down the hill, started to drive off and realised that there was a second track heading up the hill opposite the entrance to the farm of Le Fumichon…

Yup, you’ve guessed it! All of that planning out of the window as we realised that we’d just spent an hour in very hot sun taking lots of photos of the wrong part of the hill. Oh bother! (Or words to that effect!!)

Unfortunately, time was now against us as we needed to head off to Tilly sur Seulles where we were meeting Peter and his son, Eain, as the curator of the museum at Tilly – Stéphane Jacquet was interested in meeting Peter as he’d written an article for a magazine about the Battalion.

Of course, this does mean that we need to return next year (as if we need an excuse)!!

At Tilly sur Seulles Museum

Normally the museum wouldn’t have been open, however, given that it was 6th June and Stéphane was interested in meeting Peter, he’d decided that it made sense to do so. It’s a really nice museum, quite small (it’s in an old 12th Century chapel just behind the main street, but not only is it full of interesting artifacts and information, the curator Stéphane is really interested in the period and has written a number of books – in lots of ways, it’s almost a “brother” of the museum at St Martin when David Mabbutt used to be the curator – very similar in many ways, but at the same time different… visit them both and you’ll understand what I mean.

Anyway, we arrived first and Stéphane gave me his last copy of the magazine that contained the article that he’d written about the Scots Guards… then Peter and Eain arrived and, following the introductions, I showed Peter the article in the magazine… which he immediately thought was for him! I’d had it in my hands but for a few minutes and then gone! However, I couldn’t begrudge a veteran of the battle that Stéphane had written about having the copy.

So, after a good chat (or “blether” as Eain calls it), Peter and Eain set off for the Commonwealth Cemetery at Hottot les Bagues where many of Peter’s comrades from their first battle on Hill 226 now lie in peace and Glyn & I set off to see our friends Barrie and Stuart at “The Shed”. We would then all meet later at the Commonwealth Cemetery at St Charles de Percy.

St Charles de Percy

St Charles de Percy (1)It’s now become a tradition for us to attend the 6th June Commemoration and Remembrance service organised locally but with visitors from afar. There were less veterans there this year than in the past which may reflect the effects of the passing years, or that they are saving strength and money ready for next year’s 70th Anniversary of D Day and the Normandy Battles, but none the less, it was still an enjoyable ceremony.

We did (or rather I did) panic a little when we arrived & pulled up into the field that’s used as a car park… all week, the car had been making a screeching noise from the rear wheels… touching the brakes stopped it, briefly, but then driving over 50mph would bring it back… part of me wasn’t unduly worried as I had the AA behind me, but when we pulled to a stop on the field & I applied the park brake, there was such a screeching & grinding noise that even the people in the next car looked worried! Anyway, there was little that we could do then, so we went and enjoyed the service.St Charles de Percy (7)

This year, there wasn’t the evening event as there had been in the past (again, saving up for next year), so we decided to join Peter and Eain for a drink in the local bar in Montchamps, so returning to the car, there were additional grinding noises from the brakes accompanied by flashing lights and warnings on the dashboard! Ah, well, with beer at stake, we decided to head off to the bar. Upon arrival, I explained to Eain what had happened & he had two simple questions… “Do your brakes still work?” and “Are you in the AA?” with the answer to both being “Yes” it was “fine, let’s have a beer!”… good attitude!

So, thirsts slaked and farewells said, it was back to Tony and Jill’s for Glyn and I to another superb meal, wine and chat… albeit a less taxing one than the previous night!

Today’s photos