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Normandy August 2014 – Day#02 Thursday 14th August

Disaster!

We’ve had some interesting escapades on these trips with late arrivals at hotels, having to wait at the Chunnel for a delayed train, etc, but this one was spectacular!

We’d had a look around the village of Cricklade and had set off for the Chunnel as my phone rang… it was Elaine, my wife, asking whether I needed my passport!! Initially, I thought that she was looking at my old one, but a check in my documents bag told the truth! Fortunately, she’d had to get out her passport to take some information to the bank & had spotted my passport.

Back to the Midlands

A quick conversation saw us agreeing to meet at Junction 10 on the M6 motorway – an hour & a half trip for both of us – Glyn & me North & Elaine South.

So, almost two hours and a coffee later, we set off, again.

Fortunately, we’d been able to defer the crossing time for a couple of hours but it was still going to be tight on time…

Common sense strikes

On the way down, we drove through a couple of impressive rain storms and past an accident but with foot hard on the floor, we were still trying to meet the deadline for our crossing to France… we then hit further rain and, when I could no longer see the tail lights of the car in front, I decided that discretion was the better part of valour & took my foot off the accelerator, put on my emergency flashers & allowed the car to slow to a halt; there was so much rain and large hailstones coming down that it wasn’t safe to use brakes!

As we rolled to a halt, it became obvious that there had been an accident in the outside lane, with three cars nose to tail crashed into each other and the same on the inside lane… had The Man Upstairs not made me see sense & take my foot of the loud pedal, we’d have run straight into the back of it… the photos show just how bad the rain was!

So, we finally arrived at the Chunnel terminal late (but alive, I guess!!)… only to find that delays at their end meant that they were running two hours behind… so in effect, we were early!!

Bad news – no beer!

A tortuous trip through heavy rainstorms saw us arriving, late, at our usual stop-off of the Chant du Loup brewery where disaster struck, again, Patrick hadn’t been brewing as the plant was being cleaned!

Normandy August 2014 – Day#01 Wednesday 13th August

Return to Normandy

So, back off to Normandy for a third time in a single year – one of the benefits of an “Anniversary Year”… and my wife, Elaine, wasn’t complaining, either, as it meant that she got the benefit of another chunk of snore-free night’s sleep!

As it was a special year & visit – this time we were returning for me to give my “Men in the Shed” talk in the village of St Vigor des Mezerets (where the Shed is) as part of the celebrations for the 70th Anniversary of their Liberation – we decided to start on a high note…

How shall we celebrate?

… with not one, but two brewpubs in the same day!!

The first was the Radnor Arms in Coleshill, Oxfordshire home of the Old Forge Brewery & what a quaint (& very nice) pub (and beer!) it was.

Our second pub/Brewpub was the Hop Kettle brewery at the Red Lion in Cricklade, Wiltshire. This brewpub not only had a number of its own beers for sale, but also ones from other breweries.

For the evening, we were joined by Eain & Muir Findlay for beer, chat & food and a great time was had by all… especially as I wasn’t driving!!

Normandy July 2014 – Day#06 – Tuesday 29th July

Beer & chips

Our final day saw us back into England and a visit to the Sperrin Brewpub with its Victory Beers named because the pub that they’re served at has been modified to look like parts of an English Man o’ War during the Napoleonic Wars  – very interesting… & the beer wasn’t bad, either!

The only downside was a huge chip taken out of my windscreen from a stone thrown up by a lorry that we were following.

Normandy July 2014 – Day#05 – Monday 28th July

The baker’s son

Our last day in Normandy was quite amazing to say the least as we met up with M Gilbert Raimbault. Gilbert used to live where Barrie & Stuart do now… but he lived there during the Second World War when his father was the baker in the village!

He told us that the shed used to be used to store flour & the other materials that they used in the shop before the Germans began to use it to hold prisoners following D Day.

He recalled his father looking out for the prisoners being taken to the toilet which was in a little hut across the garden. He would then go out to pretend to want to use the toilet & shout abuse at the prisoner who was in there & at the German guards for allowing them to use it when he needed it. When the guards turned their backs, laughing, he knocked on the wooden door DOT-DOT-DOT-DASH – Morse Code for the letter V (also the same start to Beethoven’s 5th Symphony) – which was used by the French to signify that they hadn’t given up.

When the prisoner came out of the toilet, Gilbert’s father would continue to shout at him, but would surreptitiously pass them a loaf of bread to eat.

Amazing courage!

Normandy July 2014 – Day#04 – Sunday 27th July

Return to EPSOM

The day started with some more photos of the Operation EPSOM area – necessary as I’d not taken all of the ones that I wanted before my camera battery had died realier in the week. So, fully charged we set off again.

The start point was where we’d left off – the small hamlet of Rauray, the scene of some bitter fighting, attacks & counter-attacks on 1st July 1944. For real detail of that battle with a “blow by blow” account, Kevin Baverstock’s book “Breaking the Panzers” is a definite recommendation.

We then moved on to the “EPSOM” area “proper” (Operation MARTLET which included the Rauray battle was designed to protect the right flank of EPSOM) & visited the location where some German tanks hid behind some bushes to try to stop the British advance.

BLUECOAT Battlefield tour

A few more photos at other key locations – and it was time to head off to Beny Bocage to meet up with David & Jeanette Mabbutt & Colin Yates’ part for a Battlefield Tour.

They took a bit of finding at first as the WW2 vehicle rally that we’d agreed to meet at was not taking place at its usual venue, but a bit of good luck saw us arrive in time.

It’s quite amazing the various restored vehicles that people find & bring back to wartime condition… and then keep running, ‘though it is, largely, I think, a rich person’s hobby given how much fuel some of the vehicles use.

So, in convoy, we set off towards some of the southern locations of Operation BLUECOAT where Colin Yates had served. We ended up at Michel Letenturier’s home – Michel had written a book detailing the actions of the Guards Armoured Division & 6th Guards Tank Brigade during Operation BLUECOAT including a detailed explanation of a battle that took place in his back garden between some Self-propelled Sexton guns of the British and some German Panther tanks that had no right being there! Such was the confusion of some of the fighting.

We ended up visiting a tree that Eain & Muir Findlay had planted a number of years ago in memory of Archie Garland – a crew member of Muir Findlay’s tank SKYE

And then back to base

Normandy July 2014 – Day#03 Saturday 26th July

Breakfast in BLUECOAT

So, an early start saw us at the museum at St Martin des Besaces as we’d been invited to join in with the celebrations commemorating the 70th Anniversary of the Liberation of the village during Operation BLUECOAT.

We missed the breakfast, but saw the band who played & marched from the Salle des Fetes to the museum where we were waiting.

We’d been invited (in part) by our good friend David Mabbutt who used to be the curator of the museum & a fantastic job he used to do in that role; not only passing on information, but showing a genuine interest in people visiting the museum & always trying to ensure that he tailored their visit to meet their interests whether general, or as a result of, for example, a relative having fought in the area.

One of the special guests during this visit was Veteran Colin Yates who used to be in 131st Ayrshire Yeomanry who were an artillery unit using Sexton Self-propelled 25 pounder guns and supporting the Guards Armoured Division; it was great to see David back in “full curator mode” as he gave Colin & his family (& us “hangers-on”) a personal tour of the museum pointing out key artefacts within its collection.

Coldsteam Memorial

From the museum, we returned to our cars & drove a couple of miles to Hill 309 or “Coldstream Hill” (named after the Coldstream Guards who captured it during Operation BLUECOAT – this had been 3rd Bn Scots Guards objective once they’d taken Hill 226, but as regular readers of this blog will know, the Scots were ambushed by 3 JagdPanthers & lost 11 tanks in a very short period of time & so the Coldstream were waved through & tasked with taking Hill 309 or “Quarry Hill”.

The reason for the diversion, was the unveiling & dedication of a new memorial to the Coldstream Guardsmen that lost their lives in that battle & Colin Yates was asked to officially “unveil” it.

An interesting item was the “ladder” behind the memorial up to the road which was a section of Churchill tank track (all battalions of the 6th Guards Tank Brigade – Coldstream, Grenadier & Scots Guards – used the Churchill tank rather than the more widely available Sherman or Cromwell)

Resistance in Le Tourneur

From here, our journey then took us to the village of Le Tourneur where there was an unveiling of another memorial – this time to some local Resistance fighters who used to hide escaping Allied airmen. Interestingly, we all parked our cars in the local orchard… 70 years ago, the cars would have been replaced by tanks & other armoured vehicles.

Presentation of medal & painting

As part of this ceremony, Colin Yates was presented with a commemorative medal & I was invited to pass over the painting that Eain Findlay had commissioned & that we’d collected on our way out. This was presented to M Didier Duchemin the president of the Museum at St Martin.

Churches & memorials

Following on from this, Glyn & I returned to Hill 309 & took some photos of it looking back to Caumont where Operation BLUECOAT had commenced to get some perspective of the distances covered.

We then took a detour back further in time & visited the small church of St Sulpice in Livry, a beautiful church undergoing restoration.

We then returned to near Caumont to visit the memorial to Captain George Grey of the Grenadier Guards – the first casualty of Operation BLUECOAT – shot by a sniper & who was, at the time, the youngest Member of Parliament in the UK. Interestingly, some of the stone for the memorial actually came from the House of Commons.

A further orientation photo for Hill 226 and then we were off back to Tony & Jill’s for a well-earned meal

Normandy July 2014 – Day#02 Friday 25th July

Roman ruins

Today saw us in Normandy, but rather than initially focusing on the period between 1939-45, or more particularly, June – August 1944, we decided to go back much further in time and visit the Roman ruins at Vieux which managed to survive all of the fighting for the nearby Hill 112… ‘though one does wonder whether they would have done had the British successfully broken through.

EPSOM photoshoot plans

One of the other groups that I belong to is the Manchester Military History Society (I’ve delivered a “Men in the Shed” talk to them) and earlier in the month, I’d delivered a second talk on Operation EPSOM which was designed to break through the German lines to the West of Caen with an ultimate objective of crossing both the Rivers Odon and Orne ending up south of Caen, but, having completed the talk, I’d realised that I could have done with a few more photographs, so I decided to take this opportunity to do some further detailed research & photography.

Food at le Poivrier

However, before we started, the “Inner Man” required attention, so what better place to visit than our usual haunt on 5th June – Le Poivrier in Evrecy. Even though it was just the two of us on this occasion, rather than with our usual veterans in tow, we were still made to feel really welcome & had a great meal & beer – nice & cool to complement the heat outside.

So, back to the research.

Hill 112 in context

We started at Hill 112, one of the key intermediate objectives of Operation EPSOM, but this time, rather than staying on the top of the hill – which is a very broad plateau, we took the time to move towards the further slopes where you could immediately see why the position had such strategic value with excellent views in all directions.

Rauray and the Tyneside Scottish

We then picked up a number of key locations including the “junction” of two operations & two excellent battlefield histories near the hamlet of Rauray. Where on the right was 49th Division holding the western flank of Operation EPSOM & on the left 15th Scottish Division… The small hamlet of Rauray & the slight rise in land known as the “Ring Contour” saw the Tyneside Scottish (amounting to around 500 men) hold off two German SS Panzer Divisions & their accompanying tanks.

The two books that also meet here are Ian Daglish’s excellent: Over The Battlefield – Operation Epsom & Kevin Baverstock’s equally good “Breaking the Panzers”.

Interestingly, Ian & Kevin met when they were researching their respective battles & as Ian put it “circled around each other warily” until they realised that their battles touched, but didn’t overlap (at least from the British perspective). As a result, a friendship developed, with Kevin doing much of the map work for Ian’s book (& subsequent ones).

In fact, Kevin is delivering the 2015 Ian Daglish Memorial Lecture

Normandy July 2014 – Day#01 Thursday 24th July

White horses and bad backs

So, our second trip to Normandy this year started with its usual diversion via a pub… but this time, it was as part of a Mission. Unfortunately, in June, Eain & Muir Findlay weren’t able to join us in Normandy as Eain had badly hurt his back, but for that visit, he’d had a photograph printed onto canvass of one of Muir’s wartime colleagues – John Louden – who had been killed on the slopes of Hill 226 in the Scots Guards’ first battle in Normandy. Muir had helped bury him.

As Eain had been unable to visit Normandy, he’d asked if we would present the photograph to the museum at St Martin des Besaces.

So, we had agreed to meet Eain near where he worked to collect the picture and, taking advantage of the local geography & geology, arrived early enough to visit White Horse Hill before descending to the pub of the same name where beer was drunk & paintings exchanged.

Having taken leave of Eain, we set off for France, via the Chunnel as usual and, again things didn’t quite go according to plan as our initial stop-off point was a little further than planned; though I blamed the French for forcing us to put the clocks forward an hour!

Normal service is resumed

Anyway, “normal service” was resumed as we arrived at our overnight stay in Abbeville with a meal & beer at the Comptoir du Malt – one of the increasing number of brew-pubs establishing themselves in France.

Normandy June 2014 – Day#13 Wednesday 11th June

A final brewpub with a Great English name

Back in England and another brewpub – the George & Dragon at Swanscombe – but I’m beginning to wonder whether this blog is more about beer than wartime research!!

Normandy June 2014 – Day#12 Tuesday 10th June

Poppies and cemeteries

Back on the road & another poppy field reminding us of the blood that was shed in these areas 100 years ago.

We soon arrived at Rancourt which appears to be unique in that there are German, French and British Commonwealth cemeteries all relatively close to each other.

Then, having passed the Manchester Cemetery on the road to Bapaume, we came across the memorial to a winner of the Victoria Cross – Stretcher-bearer Private Christopher Cox – near where he won the medal.

Last night in St Omer

So, onwards to our final night’s accommodation in St Omer and a local brewery or two… but on the way, it would have been rude to miss out the Café Restaurant de la Poste in Saint Pol Sur Ternoise with its own microbrewery! We might not have fully understood the food menu (one day, we will understand French!), but the beer was very nice!

During our stay in St Omer, we visited the brewpub that we’d missed last time, only to find that it wasn’t serving any of its own beers! Hey ho! But, in a weird way, our trip this year (and those in the past) were celebrated in the room that I was staying in… Room 226!! But not a Churchill Tank in sight!